Wednesday 13 January 2016

The Journey In Palestine (Part 2 of 3)

So, yesterday's post was on my Journey To Palestine.
Today I have written about what I experienced during my stay there.
Before I begin, I want to emphasise on one thing. The media. As true as it is, Palestinian boys getting beaten by Israeli soldiers, the elderly getting harassed etc, things are not as bad as they seem. And by this I mean, it all looks too dangerous to visit and people like us will be too afraid to go to Palestine. But after staying there for a few days I can say that it is actually a safe place to travel to. There were occasions were it seemed dangerous but as Brits and people with powerful passports, we need to visit the holy land more and let them know that we come from every corner of this world. We stand strong with our Palestinian brothers and sisters and we need to help them with their businesses.

Arab Hospitality
One thing I loved about Palestine was the smiles and hospitality the Arabs had. I have been to a few Arab countries and their hospitality is immense hence the term 'Arab Hospitality' however, Palestinian hospitality breaks the scales. And let me not even start on the Kneffeh (a sweet cheesy stringy dessert) which I have only dreamt of having. (I have always wanted to try it in Palestine that when I saw it in Egypt during the summer, I stopped myself from trying it)
These Arabs are going through such a tough time living in a land which is being occupied.
We met a taxi driver who was arrested at the age of 13 for throwing stones at a military tank, a shopkeeper who was in an Israeli prison for 13 years, men who were made to leave their homes so illegal settlers could occupy them yet their eyes sparkled whenever they greeted us with 'Salaam Aleykum' – Peace be upon you.
We met a young boy called Ishaac who was 13 years old (he turned 14 when we were) who had been arrested twice. The first time he was arrested, he said how scared he was. They took him for no reason. They imprisoned him for a few weeks and denied him food sometimes and it got really cold. The second time they arrested him, he did not care. He made a joke of it. This is the courage the youth of Palestine have. They stand their ground and show no signs of weakness.
Despite such hardship, they still had hope and happiness and this is something which I did not see on the other side. I will come onto this later.


Dream come true
On the first day at 4am when we woke up for the morning prayer – Fajr Salaah, we walked through the Old City to get to the Al Aqsa Compound, I felt so excited. Something which I had been dreaming of was finally becoming a reality. I had the same emotions as when I lay my eyes upon the Ka'bah in 2014. Except this time I did not cry but I felt so blessed. I was allowed to be here when thousands of Palestinians were denied entry. I was allowed to be here while an apartheid wall was built to stop people from coming anywhere near to Jerusalem.
Non- Muslims are not allowed to enter the compound however there are certain days where tourists can see everything but they must enter from a different gate.
Before we entered the gates to enter the compound, Israeli soldiers would ask us if we were Muslims. There were occasions where they would ask us for our passports or ask us to recite a verse from the Qur'an even though they did not know it properly.
Palestinians have to leave their ID's at the gate when they want to enter and have to retrieve them after prayers when leaving the compound. After passing them we would greet the Muslim brothers at the gate with a happy Salaam. The soldiers outside always held rifles while the Arabs didn't have any weapons. Their weapons were their smiles.
I was spoilt for choice throughout my time there whenever the calls to prayer echoed through the city. Shall I pray at Masjid Al Aqsa or the Dome Of The Rock? They were just a minute apart from each other. It didn't even matter for the rewards one gets for praying anywhere on the compound, inside or outside the mosques, is the same.




The importance of Al Aqsa
For those who may not know, here is a brief explanation into why this land is the third holiest place for Muslims.
Al Aqsa was the direction in which Muslims used to pray towards until God gave the last Prophet Muhammad (saw) the orders that the direction was to change and Muslims would have to face the Kab'ah (God's house) in Makkah which Muslims turn to five times a day now. The Dome of the Rock is significant because it is believed that our prophet was taken from Madina (in Saudi Arabia) to Jerusalem in one night on a flying horse call the 'Buraq'. It was from here that he was ascended to the seven heavens and was later brought down with all the prophets and led the prayer on this compound. Only God knows how many prophets there were, thousands probably but every single one of them has prayed on the compound of Al Aqsa. Pretty significant ey. So you can now understand how special it is for Muslims when they get the chance to go there especially during these difficult times of the occupation.
During our time in Palestine we managed to see different parts of Jerusalem. The Al Aqsa compound, the different gates which led to different places in the market, the Church of Mary, the church were Jesus was crucified and laid on the table, the mosques and memorials of the companions of our Prophet (saw), the prison where Suleiman (as) (King Solomon) locked up Jinns (spirits from the parallel universe), the wailing wall which is very symbolic for the Jews, the Mount Olives.

Hebron
Tomb of Ibrahim (as)
We visited Hebron – in Arabic it is called Khalil – the name God gave to Ibrahim (as) (Abraham) which means friend. Here is the mosque where Prophet Ibrahim (as) is buried along with his wife Saira, one of his son's Ishaac (Isaac) and his wife and another son Yousef (Joseph) who was one of the most beautiful people God created. (It is said that when men enter heaven they will have the beauty of Yousef (as)
The thing about this mosque is that it is divided into two parts. About 60% of it belongs to the Jews and only 40% belongs to the Arabs. When seeing the tomb of Ibrahim (as) there were two windows. One from the Synagogue side and one from the side of the Mosque.

Memorial of Yunus (as)
On the way to Hebron, our driver went off route a little and showed us a mosque where Prophet Yunus's (Jonah) memorial is. He is the prophet who was engulfed by a Whale and was spat out after he pleaded to God to save him. This town was called Halhul which means (something along the lines of) 'coming for one year'. This is the town where Yunus (as) came and stayed for a year after being spat out by the whale.

Going around Palestine
On one of the days we went to a place called Jaffa which the Mediterranean sea borders. We then went to see the sea of Galilee. From there we went to Jericho which is the lowest point on the earth. I absolutely loved Jericho. It was just a Palestinian place and the people were all so loving. Everyone we greeted told us we were welcome to Palestine. “Ahlan w Sahlan, welcome to Falesteen” It was quite surprising that most of the Palestinians we spoke to had very good English. But then again one of the highest number of graduates come from Palestine. The only problem is that they struggle to find jobs .
We also went to Bethlehem to the church of nativity where Jesus was born. It was a pretty church but we saw something unusual. Right on top of the images of Jesus there was an image of a triangle with the eye – the FreeMason thing everyone always talks about.

A negative experience
On our last full day in Palestine, we decided that we were going to go to the Jewish quarters to see what it was like there. So we went past the wailing wall, came out from the other side, went up some stairs where we stopped to see the breath taking view of the Masjid Al Aqsa and the Dome of the Rock. It looks amazing from this spot.
We carried on going up.Me and my sisters do not usually wear the headscarf – The Hijab, but on this spiritual journey in Palestine, we decided to keep it on. So as we were going up these stairs in our Hijab, we were getting looks. We were probably the only Muslims people there at that moment. An old lady was shaking a cup of loose change begging for money. When she saw us, she leaned back in her chair and made noises of disgust whilst putting on a face as though she had seen rodents. She said some things in Hebrew and Lord only knows if she was cursing us but it was very apparent she was showing hate towards us. We were in shock. How dare she show such disrespect?! We went up a little more and there was a Jewish man in a robe and top hat who smiled at us and welcomed us to Israel. This was such a contrast to the woman we had seen a few seconds ago. It started raining and we walked uphill through an alley way where a few kids were gathered outside a door. They looked at us and my sister greeted them with hello. What we received was a mocking 'neh neh neh' and giggles. Not once had we encountered such an experience in the Arab quarters. It wasn't long before we felt unsafe, unwelcome and decided to head back towards where we came, back into the quarters where Arabs were.
In no way do I want to imply that Jews are bad or not nice, but this was one of my experiences which I felt very sad and uncomfortable in.
It was sad that a woman showed disgust towards us when she saw that we are Muslims from our head scarves. Jews also wear the head scarf or the wig when they want to cover their hair.
It was sad that these kids mocked us because it shows that they have been taught from a young age to dislike or hate people who may not be Jews.
It saddened me more that history was once again repeating itself and the people who were once victims of the Holocaust, killed in thousands because of their religion, their colour, their appearance, were now victimising people who have allowed them to live on their land. Jews were made to wear yellow bands on their arms so it was apparent that they were Jews... Today Palestinians are made to carry ID cards.
The same day in the evening it was pouring down with rain. We prayed the evening prayer after sunset – Maghrib Salaah and I decided to come back to the hotel with my sister and one of the sister's in the group to change and then return for the night time prayer – Esha Salaah. It was a 10-15 minutes journey back to the hotel and as we exited the gate of the Old City, Herrods Gate, we could hear loud screaming. We came towards a group of Palestinians with their phones out taking videos of where the screaming was coming from. I could also hearing the thumping sound of a baton hitting bare skin. I looked towards where the sound was coming from and saw that a few Israeli soldiers were beating up a Palestinian boy who couldn't have been any older than 18.
The other soldiers were trying to push Palestinians out of the way pointing their rifles towards them, and within minutes a Jeep of more soldiers had attended the scene. I do not know what this young boy did but I don't think he was that much of a threat where more than ten soldiers were needed.
No one was able to intervene and help the boy or else they would be putting their life at risk. It's a shame that this was a common site for many people in Palestine. It came as a shock to me.
Filming the incident was all people could do as this is the way to make others outside of Palestine aware of what happens on the ground. We left the scene, changed and when returning to the mosque for the final prayer, the area was back to normal and the crowd had disappeared.

During our last two days it was raining heavily. It seemed as though Jerusalem was sad to see us leave but I say this now, this may have been my first time going to Palestine, but it certainly will not be my last.


(Part 3, Journey From Palestine will be posted tomorrow)

If you haven't already, check out my Journey To Palestine

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